I detest all tropical parasites.
Topping my list, as he had for three months running, was Paul Rachec, a.k.a. the Moocher, a baby-faced thief and con artist, a man to whom you’d sooner extend your fist than your hand, a man who wore an unrelenting smirk even as he slept. I suppose I’d find it difficult to wipe the insolence off my face if I were ever able to finagle a deal as sweet as his. Without so much as a “Thank you, Ma’am” to my wife, Billie, he received room and board and whatever he could rifle from her pocketbook.
Me, I'd soon need to rifle someone's pocketbook. That, or go back to work. Work—my day-sail business—lay just a few miles across the diamond-studded Caribbean in Flamingo Bay on the island of St. Judas, the hub of my universe, where earth, air, fire, and water converged in perfect proportion and where Chase Bank’s vault guarded what the Moocher hadn't already looted of our modest savings.
The Moocher was ostensibly the boyfriend of Holly, Billie’s best friend and our original houseguest, a woman who could star in a film biography of Theda Bara, needing only a heavy application of eye makeup to fit the role of the silent screen vamp. As conniving as the Moocher, she was simply attractive enough, striking, actually, to get by with it. A woman could get by with a lot in Flamingo Bay; there weren't enough to go round. The Moocher’s stay now outlasted Holly’s by six weeks—I wasn’t the only one put off by the time and attention Billie and the Moocher lavished upon one another.
Nothing in my compact with Billie required I put my back into an oar for a man whose own oar lingered enduringly feathered, but she counted on it as a matter of course. Every time I brought up the subject of our new dependent, and it was often, she claimed the Moocher was the brother she never had. When I broached the topic of incest, Billie reacted in the manner of a mother superior accused of heresy.
Billie couldn’t see that neither of her houseguests was her friend; I didn’t know if she could see that I still loved her. Unable to get her attention and feeling more like a handyman than head of household, I followed Holly’s lead and fled Flamingo Bay. I played a risky game. I knew there existed a chance that Billie would get lonely, and the Moocher, who camped out in our gazebo, would talk his way into our cottage. Maybe he already had.
Until I ran out on Billie, I’d believed I’d found my paradise—so sure, I’d wagered everything, thrilled that for the first time in more than twenty-five years I belonged to a family. Still, I couldn’t ignore the evidence that I’d always been a man on the run.
Each time I’ve run away from home I’ve found diminishing success at putting a serious number of miles behind me. Certainly, running away from Kansas at fifteen and landing in the Philippines set an impossible standard. My latest escape—pathetic in the scope of its ambition—took me from the US Virgin Islands to the British Virgin Islands. The journey lasted nearly half a day because I checked in with Immigration to avoid being fined and chased back into US waters.
I’d put in at the land of the turtle dove, Tortola—named in 1493 by the Admiral of the Ocean Sea—but I’d done it in the manner in which a child lands on one foot in a game of hopscotch, poised to spring again and come to Earth with both feet on the ground. That was my aim: I wanted to land on St. Judas with both feet on the ground. However, after a certain age you start slipping on the down side of the meridian and you can’t expect to land on your feet; maybe you shouldn’t even expect to land. The concept defies gravity, but it also defies levity. I’ve begun likening it to the unique buoyancy of a deadhead, a log that hovers submerged—not heavy enough to sink to the bottom, not light enough to float to the surface.
Unlike deadheads that menace public navigation, I threatened only my own buoyancy.
If she sought me out, Cane Garden Bay, on Tortola’s north shore—our favorite inhabited getaway—would be the first place she’d look. If Billie had doubts, she had only to check with Pirate Dan; I’d left word with him where I could be found in an emergency. Dan, the proprietor of the Congo Club, Flamingo Bay’s principal social institution, purveyed news and gossip along with food and drink.
Though I wanted to believe Billie would eventually come looking for me, I still hadn’t heard word one from her. I kept my hands off my VHF radio the past week because the two weeks I did monitor it made me feel like a teenage girl hanging by the phone on a Saturday night, waiting for her date to call even as her curfew neared.
With my BVI cruising permit set to expire, I knew I should make contingency plans. I knew I should’ve already made them. I initially delayed charting a new course because I felt certain Billie would contact me. Since I’d done nothing to prepare for a voyage, my negligence to construct an itinerary was easy to justify. When I could no longer mark time—a mindset into which the Marines unsuccessfully attempted to indoctrinate me—I finally set about whipping my boat into shape: I inspected the systems and equipment, topped off the fuel and fresh water tanks, polished the brightwork, even donned diving gear to clean the hull.
I stood ready to take on five of the seven seas—only a hardier man with a corncob pipe and a button nose, like Frosty, could endure the challenge of the polar regions. No matter. I couldn’t decide on a compass point, much less a destination. Sure, I had friends in Puerto Rico, and I’d often thought about spending serious time on the dream isle, Dominica. But now, for the first time in my life, I feared the next port of call. The conundrum: some mornings around three a.m. I feared there’d never be another port of call; I’d forever chase the horizon.
While I waited for word from Billie or inspiration to move on without her, I got along pretty okay on Rhymer’s cheeseburgers, Callwood’s rum, and, for the past few days, a baggie of shrooms. After squaring away the boat, I mostly lounged under a tarp rigged to the mizzen boom, quite aware that it wasn’t unlike pulling a blanket over my head—the child does inform the man.
I’d left home, but I wasn’t homeless. Argo, my Cheoy Lee Clipper, rode easily to her anchor, one of six sailboats parked in nearly a straight line across the broad mouth of the bay, far enough from shore to catch the trade wind as it tumbled down the green mountainside, carrying strains of reggae and laughter out to sea.
A forty-two-foot ketch, fitted with a teak deck and trim and Sitka spruce spars, Argo provided the most luxury I’d experienced at sea. I’d skippered her for over two years, but still marveled at her superior fit and finish, and, anachronism that I am, I appreciated her nod to tradition: she looked like a true sailing vessel, a boat Jack London would, were he alive, proudly skipper. Argo lacked up-to-date electronics, but that deficit only enhanced her authenticity.
Authenticity matters.
Argo’s predecessor, Island Trader, a hundred-ton Great Lakes pilot schooner built in Thunder Bay, Ontario before the turn of the century, offered no luxury, but was so authentic that Jack London could’ve walked her deck, Joseph Conrad, too. Each recollection of her lying dead at the bottom of Flamingo Bay ripped open the unhealed wound to my heart. Until three weeks ago all that’d stopped me from bawling was the hunch that if she hadn’t sunk, I’d still be a trader plying the seas, and Billie, looking for a semblance of domesticity in her life, never would’ve married me. Now that I’d walked out on her, I simply doubled the number of things over which I wanted to cry.
As my gaze settled again on the towering primeval mountainsides of St. Judas, so lush as to appear almost black, I spotted a white sloop approaching on a port tack less than a mile out. Always fascinated by the purity of white sails against a deep-blue sea, I looked her over in the manner I’d scrutinize a pretty girl. I couldn’t help but share with her crew the exhilaration of feeling the sturdy deck underfoot and the sting of wind, salt, and sun.
I watched her mast swing upright when she turned into the wind. After she came about on a starboard tack, the wind filled her sails, and she heeled sharply. The boat itself was unremarkable, but because she now sailed on a collision course with Argo, I studied her approach intently. When a beer bottle flew over the starboard rail, disgust both deepened and diminished my curiosity.
As the boat bore down on me, the three-man crew—tourists, by the look of their doughy skin, young enough to be my sons—fired up the engine and struck the sails. Good anchorages still existed, but none adjacent to Argo; a Hinckley was anchored to my port side, and the rocky shore rose out of the sea to starboard.
Sails secured, the yacht motored by Argo, closer to the rocks than I’d have ventured. None of her crew acknowledged me. The boat was Charlotte, a charter out of Road Town, the BVI capital, located on Tortola’s south shore. When Charlotte closed on the buoys that marked the swimming beach, her anchor splashed.
The skipper reversed the engine to set the anchor. After the anchor line played out and the engine stopped, Charlotte’s stern was less than forty feet from my bow. If her anchor broke loose from the seabed, the fresh breeze would carry her smack into Argo.
I’d never before met sailors with a pack mentality; skippers like elbowroom. We don’t anchor on top of each other unless we’re forced by weather into a crowded harbor where too much neighborliness can provoke disaster on a grand scale; one boat’s anchor lets go, and it catches the anchor lines of its neighbors, occasionally sending them out to sea, but, in weather, most often carrying them ashore, piling one boat atop another, creating a post-apocalyptic tenement.
I got my feet under me and headed forward. All three of Charlotte’s crew busied themselves on deck.
“Yo!” I bellowed.
I waved my arms. I whistled. I didn't draw so much as a glance.
“Yo!” I hollered again.
Still no response. My frustration neared that territory where I’d soon prove myself a bigger fool than the fools themselves—a yo-yo. I headed aft to evaluate moving to a new anchorage. Before I got that far in my deliberation, I found myself brooding over why Charlotte’s crew singled me out. I understood that just being in the world left me open to random abuse, but the crew’s behavior felt deliberate.
I didn’t select one of Tortola’s premier destinations as my interim headquarters on a whim. If I hadn’t required an anchorage where I could be found, I’d have chosen a secluded cove to ponder the state of my life, and it was in a state. I did consider that my selection of Cane Garden Bay might’ve revealed a pre-conscious agenda—learn if I still possessed an affinity for the life of a vagabond sailor. That it coincided with my conscious agenda led me to mistrust my hypothesis.
Except for my failure to sort out my life, I did my best to enjoy my stay. Early mornings I trained on the beach in the martial arts. Later, most days, I swam and dozed and swapped stories with locals or the crews of other boats, laughing not uproariously but out loud—it was loneliness, not chapped lips, that stopped me from laughing when all alone aboard Argo.
When I wasn’t engaged in perfecting the art of navel-gazing, I forged ahead on my required reading for the Flamingo Bay Literary Society, reacquainting myself with the pre-Socratic philosophers, the late inhabitants of Spoon River, and the dashed dreams of Jay Gatsby, though I couldn’t be sure I’d ever attend another society discussion, ever return to Flamingo Bay, ever resume my role as husband.
Still steaming from my run-in with Charlotte’s crew, I needed to cool off, so an energetic swim seemed just the ticket. I pulled off my T-shirt and dug into my pocket—jackknife, lighter, cigarettes. I unconsciously lit a cigarette. I blamed my absent-mindedness on the increased volume of the annoying hip-hop that blasted from Charlotte. I figured to express my displeasure more forcibly on this go-round.
Before I could act, the skipper of the Hinckley produced a bullhorn. At the requisite decibels to get the attention of God, he barked, “Shut the fuck up!” The music died immediately. I saluted the man. Then I considered whether a bullhorn might assist me in getting Billie’s attention; nothing else had worked.
Cigarette dangling from my lips, I dug into my other pocket and found my wallet, secured in a Ziploc sandwich bag with my house key. Through the thin poly, I ran my finger over the key’s nubs, my fingernail along its groove. As much as I admired the conceit, I dissuaded myself that the cigarette smoke and the breeze conspired to burn my eyes.
Because I’d already considered the outcome of Charlotte’s anchor breaking loose and ramming Argo, I experienced a déjà vu of sorts when a solid clunk jolted Argo. I rushed forward, cursing, to survey the damage, a two-foot-long shallow gouge in the hull. As Charlotte slipped by Argo—gunwales separated by four feet of water—her skipper’s cackle sent me over the edge.
I leapt onto Charlotte’s deck and struck for the smart-ass’s jaw to demolish his smirk—his smirk, the Moocher’s smirk, every damn smirk in the Leeward Islands.
He ducked, and I caught him in the left temple. He sat down hard on his wallet, stunned. He refused to get up.
I considered dragging him to his feet by his ponytail and having another go at him, but I'd accomplished what I intended; his smirk was gone. I looked around for someone else to punch. A big redhead worked at raising the anchor. A little guy, with a half-smile and loping gait, hurried aft to replace his fallen comrade at the helm and fire up the engine.
“Who’s next? How about you?” I challenged the little guy at the helm.
“Do I look stupid enough to get into it with you? It was just an accident.”
“Accident, my ass.”
I headed forward to beat the snot out of someone my own size. Behind me, the man I punched hollered, “Hey, aren’t you Captain Brian, skipper of Fargo, terror of Flamingo Bay, cuckold extraordinaire?”
I turned to confront him, only to greet a poorly thrown punch that I easily avoided. It seemed silly to waste the momentum of his wild blow, so I contributed a bit of my own energy. A well-timed jab to hisshoulder with the heel of my hand and he followed his fist overboard.
“Help!” he shouted, before he even splashed. When he bobbed to the surface, he cried, “I can’t swim!”
Ignorant of the rules of water safety—Reach! Throw! Row! Go!—the big redhead dove in after him.
“How do you know my name?” I made my way to the helm with clenched fists. “Who sent you?" I suddenly liked the idea of all three crew treading water, while their boat left port without them. "Are you going to talk, or are you going overboard with your buddies?”
When we stood face to face, he said, “Swear to God, I know nothing. Neither does Doug. Tom, the man you punched, he’s the one to talk to. He fucked with the anchor line. I have no idea why. I don’t know how he knows who you are. I don’t even know why he insisted we anchor in Cane Garden Bay today. It wasn’t in our plans.”
“My advice—get your buddy under control. Another thing. Anchor over on the other side of the bay or plan to stand watch tonight.”
“Man, I’m really sorry about your boat. I would never intentionally damage it. It’s like keying a Ferrari 250 GTO. Bill Luders was an iconic yacht designer. I know he designed your Clipper. I’m restoring a Luders 33. Honest.” He pulled out his wallet and showed me a photo of his sloop. “We’re in the same club. We’re brothers, man.”
“Where does the redhead fit in?”
“Doug? I don’t know what’s up with him. I didn’t bargain for any of this shit.”
I jumped overboard and got in the swim to which I’d been looking forward, but it lasted only until I reached Argo. I toweled off and watched Charlotte motor to the other side of the bay. I didn’t believe I’d seen the last of her crew. I felt I’d traded the houseguest from hell on St. Judas for the yacht from hell on Tortola.

